
Assupmtions. I've always tried to strip myself of them, but...
I guess I still had the notion that all Inuit were a people who live in harmony with the land, have always hunted caribou, and respected dogs, lurking somewhere in my subconscious. No more. This week, I have apparently adopted a puppy, gone fishing at a fished out lake, and found out a few things about the changing climate. In addition, I've found myself doing things that I thought I would never do, even in the classroom.
Last Saturday, one of my colleagues, Sophie, and two little Inuuk (two Inuk) girls came to my house with a cute, dirty, feeble little thing. They told me that the dog had no owner and that I could keep her. I had been entertaining the notion of getting a dog while I was up here, but had not put anything into motion. Yet, I find myself in posession of Igaak (the traditional sunglasses used by the Inuit made from a piece of caribou hide with small slits in it), aptly named by another colleague, Isabelle, because she is white and grey with small dark circles of fur around her eyes.
A few days before, I had been at one of my student's houses, and found out that his dog's female puppies had been brought to the dump and disposed of in an unthinkable fashion, because female puppies are not in high demand. Likewise, the family had decided to dispose of the mother because she continues to have enormous litter after enormous litter. I try not to pass judgement on another culture's practices, but that did not stop me of thinking about Igaak's fate had I not brought her into my house.
I'm not sure where the mistreatment of dogs comes from. The dog used to be a beast of burden up here and was well-treated because of it. Now everyone has a Honda (what the Inuit call an ATV) a skidoo, and various other machines-of burden, so the dog, for so long the best of the beasts, has largely been relegated to a punching bag. On the other hand, some folks around here take great pride in their dogs. One Inuk from Wakeham Bay won the annual dog sled race here in Nunavik.
Enough about dogs. Well, almost. On Saturday, at about twelve o'clock, Marion, a colleague who is married to Jaaka, an Inuk, invited me to go fishing at one o'clock. I had plans, but the chance to get out in open water was simply too tempting to pass up, and that's just how things go here, one has to be ready to drop everything immediately (there will be more to come about this in further postings). So after walking the dog, I got a few things together and headed out the door.
We left promptly at one thirty, and headed out across Wakeham Bay to a place called Kitsujaq (kit-soo-yak). Had we just ridden across the bay and saw the cliffs I sopke of in my first post, and returned, I would have been far more than satisfied. It indeed would be paradise for a climber. The cliffs are undescribable, and I don't have a photograph. So I won't try.
We made it to Kitsujaq with little difficulty, and unloaded the boat at Marion and Jaaka's camp. We walked up a river to a lake and fished for Arctic Char. Along the way, Jaaka told me how there were no arctic char in this lake for as long as he can remember, but years ago, he and some of the other Inuit made a channel up to the lake by removing large stones by hand so the fish could go upstream to their wintering grounds when the water was low in the riverbed. It must have been some kind of undertaking.
The scenery was beautiful, the walk amazing, and the company fantastic. What really blew me away, however, was when Jaaka recounted a story from his childhood (the man was born in an igloo) where the village's elders were arguing about caribou. Some of them believed the animal to be hoofed and antlered, much like the one on the quarter. Others were insisting that a caribou indeed had antlers, but was the size of a wolf and had claws. It appears that the caribou were not in this area until about twenty-five or so years ago, and these elders had never seen one. What a surprise! In my mind, the Inuit of Nunavik and the caribou were inseperable. Apparently, it is the changing climate we hear so much about in the North that has actually brought the caribou here.
We reached the lake, which is pristine, clear, and surrounded by awesome mountains, and I fished for about a half an hour. No luck. Jaaka suggested that he give it a try. On his first cast, he landed a char. "Landlocked variety," he said and quickly threw it back. Second cast... landlocked variety. After a couple more casts, he gave me back the rod and said, "the Char must have moved on."
I spent a couple of hours continuing to fish, with only one good bite to show for it. Later on, Jaaka suggested that the lake might be fished out. I asked, "really? That happens here?" naive qallunat that I am. He replied that he has tried to push for the impementation of some reglations on fishing, but people have flocked to any lake he suggested needed regulation after hearing that there were fish in it.
Marion, Jakka and their kids picked berries all day while I fished unsuccessfully. I felt thoroughly unresourceful and humble when faced with the five gallon pail of berries they had picked. We returned to the camp to find our canoe with which we would retrieve the boat was out in the bay. We had waited too long and the tide was too high. The tides here are around twelve meters, some of the largest in the world. We managed to radio some people who were in the area to retrieve it for us before it sank to the bottom, for the rope tying it to the bottom was less than twelve meters long. By the time we had brought the boat up to shore, it was dark and the winds were too high to return. After several futile attempts to reach people in town with the sattelite phone so they could water and walk Igaak, we settled into the camp.
The next morning, I awoke with the sunrise, about six o'clock. After another unproductive round of fishing, and a couple of hours of waiting for the winds to die down on a larger fishing vessel, we set out for home. Luckily, my neighbour had heard the dog whining and several of the teachers took turns pampering the pooch. Upon returning, the wonderful souls that looked after Iggaak and myself set out to collect mussles, which are ridiculously abundant and easy to collect, along the bay at low tide. What a weekend. I am indebted to them dearly, and will reciprocate by cooking a caribou roast this weekend, after another trying and rewarding week of teaching.
Speaking of the school, it is so completely different from a Southern school. I spent a good eight months at Western University being beaten over the head with warnings to "never touch your students". However, last week I found myself carrying a fourteen year-old young man down the stairs while he was still in his chair, and a twelve-year old underneath my arm five minutes later. It is diffucult , but ultimately worth the effort.
Reflecting on this weekend, it has hit me. I know nothing of the North. Surprised to see the treatment of dogs, astounded by the history of the caribou in this region, and shocked by the over-fishing in some of the lakes, I was stripped of my cultural assumptions about this place, benign and repressed as they may have been. I've begun to realize just how different life in an this village is from the idea that I and so many of my Qallunaat brethren have of the North.